Chrome Bumper Conversion:

It was always my aim to covert the Mg to chrome bumpers. I chose a rubber bumper model originally because they are so much easier to convert to the Rover V8. But I don't like the rubber bumpers so they will have to go.

The front chassis ends are modified to make room for the new Grille.

 

New lower front springs purchased to bring the front down to Chrome Bumper height (1.5 inches).

The rear suspension will also have to be lowered, I am looking at the various options available to me.

 

This is the Rubber to Chrome bumper conversion kit, which included most things that you need to make the change over.  

 This was a test fit of the new honeycombe grille. It doesn't fit, not by a long way, these reproduction parts are the wrong shape, and bend outwards on the corners. I will have to modify it somewhat.

 

The rear spring hangers were severely corroded, so I decided to replace them with chrome bumper spring hangers, which will also reduce the rear ride height. Also giving the added benefit of being able to the correct chrome bumper brackets.  

 

 I also discovered that the rear spring front hangers had some corrosion on them, so I made the decision to replaced theses as well, with those for a chrome bumper MGB, which.

 

 Here I am cutting away the addition chassis section that the factory fitted to lower the bump stop for the rubber bumper cars.

The finished bump stop, now at the correct height for a chrome bumper MGB

 I have decided to start again on the front bumper mounting modifications. The adapter bracket that comes in the conversion kit bolts to the remains of the rubber bumper bracket, I am not happy with the look of it and have decided to fit the proper chrome bumper brackets, this means cutting back the front chassis ends and making a captive nut bracket for the bolts to go into.

The filler piece is made and a captive nut welded on the back, I have left a slot in it to allow for the bumper bracket nuts to be slid into the chassis.

As the ride height will be lower, as well as the work I have done on the rear bump stop, the fronts will also have to be modified. You can buy shorter bump stops from Moss, but being the tight arse that I am, I decided to make my own. 

 This is the original rubber bumper bump stop (without the alluminium spacers).

Here is the shortened version, with about 1/2 inch cut out, and ready for welding.

 

Chassis:
In the main, the chassis is not too bad, some areas of rust to be treated and both rear spring hangers will have to be replaced as they have rusted away.

  The holes you can see in these pictures were filled in with fibreglass and then undersealed, not very clever in my opinion. Both spring hangers will be cut out and replaced with new.   

 Started work on the rear spring hangers today, I cut away the off side, and a pile of rust came falling out.

 Old spring hanger compared to the new one.
I am deliberately fitting a chrome bumper rear spring hanger in place of the rubber bumper one, to reduce the ride height.

 This is the new rear MGB spring hanger held in place prior to welding. The spring hanger is a Steelcraft one, and therefor doesn't fit, it has to be cut and tweeked to get it in the right place, even then the shackle hole is one centimeter further forward than the factory part.
I am also welding in reinforcements inside the join.

This is the fitted panel, including the boot side member, I had to make new angled section to fix it to the new chassis. I then painted inside the spring hanger prior to welding on the closing panel.

This is the completed spring hanger, with the new closing panel plug welded on .

  The near side spring hanger will also be replaced in the same way.

Left side completed in the same way.

 The next stage is to clean all the sticky underseal off the underside of the MGB, however, trying to tackle it with a heat gun and scraper lying underneath it is next to impossible, so I set about building a Rotisserie.

 

 

 Here it is with the MG on its side, making the nasty job of cleaning the underseal off, a little easier. It took 5 or 6 evenings with the scraper, hot air gun and white spirit to get it to a reasonably clean state.

 Now that the bottom is totally clear of underseal and filler and fibreglass etc, I can see what needs doing. The rear spring front hangers I thought initially ok, but holes have now appeared, so I will cut them out and fit new ones, together with new Heelboard extensions. This is also a good opportunity to fit chrome bumper hangers, (as I have done at the rear) therefore giving me the correct ride height.

 

 The rear bumper stop chassis area on the right hand side has corrosion.I thought that I would make up some repair panels and fit a new bump stop, however, having thought about it a bit more, it seems that this bump stop section, is an addition fitted to the rubber bumper chassis, to lower the bump stop, but because I will be having the same ride height as the chrome bumper version, this added chassis section can simply be cut out, and new bump stop plates welded on, therefore overcoming the bump stop issue because of the lower ride height.

 I am in the process here, of cutting away the bump stop chassis section, and once it is cleaned up I will weld on the new bump stop plate.

  Here is the completed bump stop. 

The underside of the MGB is now fully repaired, and treated with Bonda Zink primer, ready for the next stage, I have yet to decide what paint/protection system to use.

 There was some corrosion on the n/s/f chassis end, so I decided to cut it out and make a new section.

 This is the box section with a flange and captive nuts for the bumper brackets.

This is the completed repair.

Sills:
Both sills are rusty, the n/s is repairable, but the o/s will have to be replaced.

 I cut away the off side sill today, using the electric saw and angle grinder.
I found more rust than was expected!

 The castle rail has been repaired at least 3 times, a section welded over the top of the old one at the front and 2 different sections at the back, this explains why the bottom line of the sill was all over the place. The castle rail will have to be replaced as well.

 I cut away the Castle rail on the o/s and then removed the poorly repaired section on the inner step sill, and weld in a new piece made from sheet metal.

 I managed to buy the sill kits from ebay for both sides, saving some money on the cost of new ones, and they are genuine heritage parts.

 The castle rail is cut off first and then offered up for size.

 To get the positioning correct, you use spacers, I cut three wooden blocks for the internal spacing, 4 1/4 inches long by 2 3/8 inches deep, this places the castle rail the correct distance from the inner step sill. I then cut 3 pieces of flat metal strips, 5 1/2 inches long and used Cleco fixings to hold them in place. The castle rail is them removed and prepared for welding.

 The Castle Rail is welded into place and then the new chassis outrigger is welded on top of that, and lastly the jacking point.

The inner sill and castle rail are now painted with Bonda Zink primer and will be coated with chassis paint before the next sill panel is fitted.

 The inner sill membrane has now been plug welded into place, then the weld ground down smooth and painted.

 I spent a whole evening just lining up the outer sill, to get the gaps just right, some bending and tweeking was required, once I was happy, I then plug welded it into place, and welded around the pillar etc.

 Work begins on the n/s sill, initially I was going to save the left sill and just do local repairs, but seeing how bad the inside of the right sill was, and looking at the poor shape and alignment of the left sill, I have decided to cut it all off and replace it all.

 The outer sill and inner membrane has been cut away, and there are some repairs to be done to the inner step sill, similar to the work i have already done on the right side.

 Repair section made by hand and welded into place on the inner step sill.

 Spacers fitted to the Castle Rail, ready for welding.

 Castle rail, and new chassis outrigger now welded into place, also the new jacking point.

The floor edge panel was then prepared and many holes drilled for the plug welds, and finally welded into place.

 The inner Sill Membrane was plug welded into place, primed and then painted.

 A repair section was made for the bottom of the 'A' pillar.

 The completed n/s Sill outer, lined up and welded.